Your night, stop by stop
Freedive at Għar id-Dud
We meet a freedive guide at dawn off the Sliema rocks, masks on, working the drop-offs for whatever's swimming through.
The Marsa fish auction
We drive over to the wholesale pixkerija while it's still loud and wet, picking up a whole fish straight off the ice.
Cook it on the roof
Back at a Sliema rooftop with lemons, salt, a charcoal grill and a bottle of Maltese white. Whatever we caught or bought, we cook now.