Your night, stop by stop
Paddle out from Exiles
We rent a double kayak and push off into the bay, hugging the cliffs toward St Julian's where the water turns properly blue.
The cave swim
We pull the kayak onto a rock shelf near the cliffs, jump in, and float through one of the small sea caves you can only reach from the water.
Ftira on the rocks
Salt-crusted and starving, we grab a stuffed ftira from a kiosk and eat it sitting on the rocks at Independence Garden, watching the boats come in.