Your night, stop by stop
Coco the parrot
We catch the last train to Ostia and walk the dark beach until we find the kiosk where a parrot greets regulars by name.
Sea-salt negronis
We drink negronis with our shoes off at a beach bar that stays open absurdly late, the Tyrrhenian doing its thing in the dark behind us.
4am supplì
We catch the night train back and end up at the 24-hour bakery near Termini, eating supplì and pizza bianca with the taxi drivers.